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Terram - D:SOL MMXVI

 

Level up your labdanum.

The history of labdanum goes all the way back to the ancient world. It’s mentioned in the Bible’s Book of Genesis and some scholars believe it also has ties to the Torah. Specialists on Ancient Egypt think the false beards worn by Osiris and the pharaohs were actually labdanum-laden goat’s beards. Centuries ago labdanum was collected by combing the beards of goats that had been grazing on Mediterranean Cistus (or Rock Rose) shrubs. It was harvested to use as incense and was also used as a treatment for colds, coughs, menstrual issues and rheumatism. 

Nowadays it’s mainly used for perfumery as a primary component of amber accords. When most people think of the word amber, they think of the fossilized resin; however, amber in perfumery has its basis in ambergris. Ambergris is basically the sperm whale’s version of a cat’s hairball. It occurs due to the whale’s diet of squid and a build up of the beaks and other indigestible parts. Natural ambergris isn’t used much anymore due to the obvious ethical issues. It does sometimes wash up on a beach after being adrift on the sea. There are actually dogs trained to sniff it out. Finding it can be like hitting the lottery. However it’s far too scarce of a resource to be a reliable component of any perfumes produced in large quantities. 

Perfumers use labdanum in amber accords because it shares a component with ambergris called ambrein, which is one of the main constituents of ambergris’s aroma. It’s a rich, viscous material that’s very difficult to work with at room temperature. Its scent can easily become dominant in a formulation, which is why Terram is such a marvel. 

All three of D:SOL’s perfumes have their roots in the smells of the Mediterranean. When most people think of Mediterranean scents, their minds most often deviate towards bright, joyful citrus notes; however, the resins and balsams are just as important to the region’s olfactory culture. Maybe even more so due to their roots in antiquity. 

Perfumer Marie Le Febvre creates an incredibly spacious feeling within Terram while retaining a sense of vigor and ruggedness. The light touch in which Le Febvre uses to create a canvas of labdanum allows her to layer in a cast of supporting characters that not only accentuate labdanum’s inherent characteristics, but also hold their own within its syrupy richness. The subtle sweetness of benzoin is balanced against dry, salty vetiver. While pink pepper gives a delicate hint of fruits, and patchouli lends a grounded earthiness.

Terram is the smell of a long day’s hike under the sun on dry paths flanked by hardy shrubbery that leads to a vista overlooking a vast open space peppered with pine trees that leads to the sea. 

Notes

  • Galbanum,Pink Pepper, Coriander
  • Magnolia, Cistus, Fir Balsam,Benzoin 
  • Patchouli, Vetiver, Musk, Cedarwood

Perfumer: Marie Urban Le Febvre, 2020.

75 ml / 2.5 fl.oz. eau de parfum.

Ingredients: Alcohol Denat., Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Limonene, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Isoeugenol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool 

Selected and Decanted by: Hoohaa, Wadebridge House, 16 Wadebridge Square, Poundbury, Dorchester, DT1 3AQ

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